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Sunday, May 19, 2013

Diorling by Christian Dior c1963

In 1963, when Diorling was launched, Christian Dior was a prominent figure in haute couture fashion, known for his luxurious and romantic designs that epitomized post-war elegance. This period marked a continuation of Dior's legacy after his revolutionary "New Look" of the 1940s and 50s, which had redefined women's fashion with its emphasis on full skirts and hourglass silhouettes.

Dior's affinity for British culture and his penchant for elegant simplicity are reflected in the name "Diorling," a clever play on the endearing term "Darling." This name would resonate well in the context of the time period because it blends Dior's personal charm with a sense of sophistication and allure. The choice to incorporate his name into perfume titles, including "Diorling," was a strategic branding decision that capitalized on his established reputation and the association of the Dior name with luxury and refinement.




Women of the early 1960s would likely have related to "Diorling" as a symbol of elegance and femininity, aligning with the glamorous image associated with Christian Dior's fashion empire. Dior's perfumes were not just scents; they were an extension of his couture, offering women a way to embody the same sense of style and grace. Therefore, women would have responded positively to "Diorling," seeing it as an accessory to enhance their sophistication and allure.

The word "Diorling" evokes images of luxury, refinement, and perhaps a touch of playful flirtation due to its derivative from "Darling." It suggests intimacy and exclusivity, making it a fitting name for a perfume intended for sophisticated women of the era.

As for its appeal across different nationalities, while "Diorling" has a British-inspired name, it would likely have universal appeal among French, British, and American women alike. The allure of the Dior brand transcends national borders, with each demographic appreciating its association with high fashion and luxury.

Overall, "Diorling" would have been perceived as a unique and elegant name for a perfume, perfectly capturing the essence of Christian Dior's aesthetic and the spirit of the early 1960s. Its appeal would have resonated broadly among women seeking to embody the timeless elegance and allure of Dior's haute couture.
  
"Diorling" by Christian Dior, launched in 1963 and crafted by perfumer Paul Vacher, represents a pivotal moment in the brand's fragrance history. Paul Vacher, renowned for his ability to create sophisticated and luxurious scents, was chosen to capture the essence of Dior's couture in a bottle. This collaboration aimed to translate Dior's timeless elegance and refinement into a fragrance that would resonate with women of the era.

The perfume itself embodies the style and sophistication of the early 1960s, a period when Christian Dior's influence on haute couture continued despite his passing in 1957. "Diorling" is characterized by a harmonious blend of floral and leather notes, designed to evoke a sense of femininity and allure that mirrored Dior's fashion ethos. Its creation marked a seamless extension of Dior's legacy, offering women a scent that complemented the elegance and grace associated with Dior's iconic designs.

The development of "Diorling" spanned three years, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail that characterized its creation. This extended period allowed for the careful formulation and refinement of the fragrance, ensuring that each note harmonized perfectly to achieve the desired olfactory profile. Such dedication underscores Dior's commitment to producing perfumes that not only met high standards of quality but also embodied the luxury and sophistication for which the brand was renowned.

Beyond its olfactory appeal, "Diorling" was intricately integrated with Dior's haute couture fashion. Perfume, in Dior's vision, was not merely a cosmetic product but an essential component of the overall aesthetic experience offered to discerning clientele. The perfume's luxurious presentation in a Baccarat crystal bottle, designed by Fernand Guerry-Colas with a gilded bronze framework and a rose bud-shaped stopper, further enhanced its appeal. This packaging not only underscored the exclusivity of "Diorling" but also reinforced its alignment with Dior's commitment to luxury and refinement.

In conclusion, "Diorling" by Christian Dior, created by perfumer Paul Vacher, remains a landmark in fragrance history. It exemplifies the brand's dedication to capturing the essence of haute couture in a scent, blending sophistication, elegance, and timeless allure. The perfume's development process and its luxurious presentation highlight Dior's enduring legacy as a purveyor of luxury and style, resonating with women who seek to embody the sophistication and refinement synonymous with the Dior name.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? Diorling is classified as a light floral chypre fragrance for women. It was reportedly created from over 350 different elements. Alongside the precious Miss Dior, the heady Diorama, and the fresh Diorissimo, Diorling asserts its personality. Green and flowery, decided and casual, tender with finesse, spiritual with elegance, Diorling is a bouquet of jasmine studded with honeysuckle and illuminated with Bulgarian rose. Diorling is pale green in the bottle, as fresh and fragrant as that early green of spring.
  • Top notes: hyacinth, bergamot, cinnamon, bitter orange peel, nasturtium, fruit notes
  • Middle notes: carnation, iris, French jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, honeysuckle, Bulgarian rose
  • Base notes: Abyssinian civet, spices, tonka bean, ambergris, sandalwood, labdanum, vetiver, musk, patchouli, oakmoss, leather

Playbill, 1964:
"Admirers of Dior perfumes, and that includes me, will almost inevitably be pleased with the newest, just added to the collection. Name: Diorling. Personality: contradictory — inviting and innocent at the selfsame time. Specific floral accent: none ..."

Scent Profile:


Let's immerse ourselves in the sights, sounds, and scents of London in the 1960s, accompanied by the notes of Diorling, as we visit iconic landmarks, charming restaurants, Christian Dior's salon, and the tranquil parks and gardens.

Picture yourself strolling past the Royal Albert Hall, where the crispness of hyacinth fills the air, mingling with the citrusy zest of bergamot. The scent of cinnamon and bitter orange peel lingers from a nearby patisserie, where freshly baked pastries tempt passersby. Nasturtium blooms cascade from hanging baskets, adding a peppery green note to the bustling streets. The aroma of ripe fruit notes drifts from a market stall, hinting at the abundance of the season.

Entering Christian Dior's salon on New Bond Street, the elegance of Diorling unfolds. Carnation and iris whisper of timeless sophistication, echoing the intricate designs showcased in the salon's window displays. French jasmine and lily-of-the-valley evoke the delicate fabrics of haute couture gowns, while honeysuckle and Bulgarian rose exude a refined femininity that mirrors the grace of Dior's creations. The salon is a sanctuary of style, where each note of Diorling harmonizes with the opulence of the surroundings.

Afternoon tea at The Ritz provides a backdrop for the rich base notes of Diorling. Abyssinian civet adds a hint of intrigue, reminiscent of the exclusive perfumes adorning the elegant patrons. Spices from exotic lands blend with the comforting aroma of tonka bean, while ambergris captures the essence of distant shores. Sandalwood and labdanum infuse the air with a warm, resinous depth, echoing the grandeur of nearby Hyde Park's ancient trees. Vetiver and oakmoss evoke the tranquility of Kew Gardens, while musk and patchouli create a sensual allure that lingers like a whispered promise of evening elegance. Leather notes hint at the luxury of Bond Street boutiques, where Dior's timeless designs continue to captivate fashion enthusiasts.

In this tapestry of London in the 1960s, Diorling emerges as more than just a fragrance—it's a sensory journey through an era defined by elegance, creativity, and cultural vibrancy. Each note captures a moment in time, inviting you to experience the city's landmarks, restaurants, Christian Dior's salon, and parks and gardens through the lens of luxury and style that defined the era.

Product Line:



The "Diorling" fragrance line featured a diverse array of products, each catering to different preferences and uses. At the pinnacle of the collection was the Parfum, the most concentrated form of the fragrance. This luxurious product offered the richest, most intense expression of "Diorling," encapsulating the essence of its sophisticated and intricate scent profile. The Parfum was designed for those who desired a long-lasting and opulent scent experience, ideal for special occasions and evenings.

Complementing the Parfum was the Eau de Toilette, a lighter and more versatile interpretation of the "Diorling" fragrance. This product was perfect for everyday use, providing a refreshing and enduring scent that could be worn throughout the day. The Eau de Toilette captured the elegance of "Diorling" in a form that was suitable for both daytime activities and casual settings, making it a staple in the collection.

For those who preferred an even lighter fragrance, the Eau de Cologne was available. This version offered a crisp, invigorating rendition of the "Diorling" scent, ideal for a subtle touch of fragrance. The Eau de Cologne was perfect for warmer weather and for individuals who favored a more delicate scent that was easy to reapply throughout the day.

In addition to these liquid fragrances, the "Diorling" line also included luxurious Dusting Powder. This product provided a silky, fragrant finish to the skin, enhancing the overall scent experience while also offering a touch of softness and elegance. The Dusting Powder was an excellent choice for adding a layer of fragrance after a bath or shower, contributing to a feeling of refined indulgence.

In summary, the "Diorling" product line by Christian Dior offered a comprehensive range of fragrance options, from the intense and luxurious Parfum to the light and invigorating Eau de Cologne, along with elegant dusting powders and perfumed sachets. Each product provided a unique way to enjoy the sophisticated and intricate scent of "Diorling" catering to various preferences and needs, and embodying the essence of Dior's timeless elegance.

To open the classic Dior crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Christian Dior themselves in 1963:
Should warm water on the bottle neck fail, tap the stopper gently with a knife handle; or try rubbing face cream or vaseline around neck of stopper.



Bottles:


Diorling was offered in an array of exquisite bottles, ranging from luxurious colorful Baccarat crystal amphoras to elegant colorless Baccarat crystal versions. The collection also featured classic frosted glass houndstooth bottles for parfum, eau de toilette, and poudre sachet, alongside standard crystal bottles and practical eau de toilette options with screw caps. Additionally, spray flacons were available, showcasing the versatility and timeless elegance of the Diorling fragrance presentation across various styles and designs.


Diorling Crystal & Bronze Flacon:


The presentation of "Diorling" in a lavish Baccarat crystal and bronze perfume bottle circa 1963 exemplifies the luxury and elegance associated with Christian Dior's brand. The bottle, designed by Fernand Guerry-Colas, was a work of art in itself, reflecting the refined taste and attention to detail characteristic of Dior's haute couture.

The choice of Baccarat crystal for the bottle signified exclusivity and sophistication. Known for its exceptional clarity and brilliance, Baccarat crystal was a fitting material to showcase the precious liquid within. The narrow, teardrop shape of the bottle added to its allure, enhancing the visual appeal and contributing to its luxurious aesthetic.

The bottle was further adorned with a gilded bronze framework and rested on a footed base, elevating its presentation. The solid bronze rose bud-shaped stopper not only provided a practical function but also served as a decorative element, adding a touch of elegance and refinement.

To complete the luxurious experience, "Diorling" was housed in a yellow hexagonal shaped presentation box, which featured the Dior logo and added to the overall opulence of the perfume. The combination of the meticulously crafted bottle and the luxurious packaging reinforced the perfume's status as a premium product, appealing to discerning consumers who appreciated both the fragrance and the artistry of its presentation.

In summary, the sumptuous Baccarat crystal and bronze perfume bottle designed by Fernand Guerry-Colas for "Diorling" encapsulated the essence of luxury and sophistication that defined Christian Dior's brand. It was a testament to Dior's commitment to excellence in both fashion and fragrance, offering consumers not just a scent, but a piece of art that embodied the timeless elegance of Dior's creations.



Opulent Colorful Baccarat Crystal Amphoras:


In 1947, Fernand Guéry-Colas designed the inaugural bottle for Parfums Christian Dior, heralding the debut of Miss Dior perfume. Crafted by Baccarat, this bottle took the form of an amphora, characterized by its graceful curves and intricate detailing. The design featured clear crystal overlaid with colored enamel, meticulously cut to reveal glimpses of the crystal beneath, enhanced further by delicate gilded accents. Available in shades of red, white, and blue—symbolizing the colors of the French flag—each bottle was presented in opulent satin-covered boxes, meticulously lined with silk. During its initial year, only two hundred eighty-three bottles of Miss Dior extrait were meticulously produced, highlighting both its rarity and prestige.

Throughout the 1950s, the tradition of using colored crystal amphora bottles for special limited editions persisted, especially during the holiday seasons. These exquisite bottles continued to serve as vessels for some of Dior's most iconic fragrances, including Miss Dior, Diorissimo, Diorling, Diorella, and Diorama. Each fragrance was encased in Baccarat crystal bottles adorned with vibrant shades of enamel—red, white, and blue—echoing the colors of the French flag. These limited editions not only celebrated the timeless elegance of Dior's perfumes but also added an extra layer of exclusivity and luxury, making them highly sought-after collector's items. The use of these colored crystal amphora bottles underscored Dior's commitment to craftsmanship and artistic expression, ensuring that each fragrance was not only a scent but also a piece of exquisite artistry.

Colorless Baccarat Crystal Amphora Flacons:


However, the expense associated with producing these luxuriously colored Baccarat crystal bottles, coupled with the surging demand for the new perfume, prompted Parfums Dior to reconsider its approach to presentation. Subsequently, a revised version of the amphora bottle was introduced for regular editions of the extrait, also crafted by Baccarat. This iteration retained the elegance of its predecessor, featuring molded sides adorned with a ringed handle design. The front of the bottle bore the name "Christian Dior" in refined white serigraphy, while the base showcased intricate ray-patterned cuts. Completing the presentation, a ground glass stopper in a teardrop shape ensured both functionality and aesthetic cohesion.

Each of these bottles was elegantly housed in a sturdy presentation box made of heavy cardstock and enveloped in thick paper. Adorned with a golden cartouche bearing the Christian Dior name and a simple gilded band along its top, the box was adorned with a meticulously arranged satin bow on its lid. To secure the bottle during transit and maintain its pristine condition upon arrival, a secure cording tied the base of the bottle to the base of the presentation box. This meticulous attention to detail not only underscored the luxury of the Miss Dior perfume but also ensured a captivating and memorable unboxing experience for its fortunate recipients.


To open the classic Dior crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Christian Dior themselves in 1963:
Should warm water on the bottle neck fail, tap the stopper gently with a knife handle; or try rubbing face cream or vaseline around neck of stopper.
 

Dun's Review and Modern Industry, 1964:
"Thus, in the fantasy world of fragrance, Christian Dior Perfumes Corp. offers its "Diorling" for the girl who has everything— or at least $175 for two ounces of the stuff— in a striking and costly Baccarat crystal bottle."
Esquire, 1965:
"Graceful urn of Diorling is contemporary in concept, $40. Christian Dior."


Oblong Crystal Refill Flacons:

In 1953, a new bottle was presented. According to a 1953 newspaper ad, it was meant to refill your fancy amphora bottle and was packaged with a small funnel. This pretty clear glass oblong shaped bottle sports a nice thickly glazed paper label crowned with the famous Christian Dior bow. The bottle has a ground glass cup shaped demi lune stopper. The bottle is molded on the base with "Bottle Made in France" and "CD" for Christian Dior and the bottle size. These bottles were available in 1 ounce and 2 ounce sizes.

The beautiful presentation box is a heavy, ribbed cardstock covered in the famous Dior Dove Grey color, and it's label matches the one on the bottle. The elegant dove gray shade, a favorite of Christian Dior, was originally used in the immaculate Maison Dior flagship boutique in Paris, coupled with white plaster moldings. This presentation is notable because it does not feature the black and white houndstooth pattern.

Crystal Travel Flacons for Parfum:


The square shaped, clear glass bottle sports a nice thickly glazed paper label and is fitted with a brass screw cap. This bottle was made expressly for travel and is supposed to be leakproof. The bottle is molded on the base with "Bottle Made in France" and "CD" for Christian Dior. 

The beautiful presentation box is a heavy cardstock covered in white and trimmed with the famous Dior Dove Grey color, and it's label matches the one on the bottle. The elegant dove gray shade, a favorite of Christian Dior, was originally used in the immaculate Maison Dior flagship boutique in Paris, coupled with white plaster moldings.  

Frosted Crystal Houndstooth Flacons:


In 1950, Christian Dior introduced the celebrated houndstooth design for his parfum packaging, a design that would become iconic in the world of fragrance. These bottles featured frosted glass adorned with an embossed houndstooth pattern, creating a charming play of light and shadow that lent an air of sophistication to the fragrance within, giving it a radiant appearance behind the crystal walls.

By 1952, this distinctive design extended to the Eau de Toilette version, known as the "Eau de Toilette Luxe," ensuring a consistent and luxurious aesthetic across Dior's fragrance offerings. These rectangular bottles were available in three sizes—2 oz, 4 oz, and 8 oz—providing options to suit various preferences and needs while maintaining the elegant houndstooth motif that became synonymous with Dior perfumes.

Additionally, the Poudre de Parfum Pour Sachet was introduced, offering a unique way to enjoy the Dior fragrance experience. This perfumed powder was elegantly packaged for use in sachets, crafted to impart the exquisite scent of Dior perfumes into personal spaces such as drawers and wardrobes. The inclusion of Poudre de Parfum Pour Sachet further enriched Dior's product line, providing a luxurious and multifaceted approach to fragrance enjoyment that catered to the refined tastes of Dior's discerning clientele.


Houndstooth Labeled Travel Flacons:


Introduced in the 1950s, the vintage screw cap travel bottles represented a practical and stylish solution for Dior's Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne offerings. These tall, oblong-shaped bottles were specifically designed for travel, featuring plastic screw caps that ensured secure closure during transit. The caps were adorned with a black houndstooth pattern to complement the houndstooth paper labels adorning the lower part of the bottle. Some bottles were further embellished with small fabric bows tied delicately around their necks, adding a touch of elegance to the utilitarian design.

Each bottle was housed in packaging that echoed the sophisticated houndstooth motif, ensuring a cohesive and luxurious presentation. This design not only emphasized Dior's commitment to both functionality and aesthetic appeal but also catered to the needs of discerning travelers who sought to carry their favorite Dior fragrances with them wherever they went. The vintage screw cap travel bottles remain a testament to Dior's timeless elegance and innovation in blending practicality with haute couture sensibilities.

Atomizers:


In 1966, Christian Dior made a significant advancement in fragrance packaging with the introduction of aerosol spray bottles for their perfume collection. This innovation marked a departure from traditional atomizers, offering consumers a convenient and modern way to apply their favorite scents. The aerosol spray bottles were available in multiple sizes, catering to various preferences and needs. For instance, Miss Dior was presented in a white package, Diorama in grey, Diorissimo in pink, and Diorling in yellow, each color corresponding to the fragrance inside.

Cue, 1966:
"Christian Dior has just introduced a complete aerosol perfume collection. In addition to the purse-size atomizer (at $5), you can now color-select your favorite in three sizes — Miss Dior in white package, Diorama in grey, Diorissimo in pink, Diorling in yellow."

The transition to aerosol spray bottles represented a technological leap in perfume application, providing a more controlled and efficient method for dispensing fragrance. This development not only enhanced the user experience by ensuring precise and even distribution but also aligned with contemporary trends in packaging and consumer convenience. By offering a range of sizes and colors, Dior catered to diverse tastes while maintaining the luxurious appeal and high standards associated with the brand. The introduction of aerosol spray bottles for Diorama and other fragrances exemplified Christian Dior's commitment to innovation and meeting the evolving needs of perfume enthusiasts worldwide.





Cue, 1966:
"Christian Dior has just introduced a complete aerosol perfume collection. In addition to the purse-size atomizer (at $5), you can now color-select your favorite in three sizes — Miss Dior in white package, Diorama in grey, Diorissimo in pink, and Diorling in yellow. They tell me that there is absolutely no change in the formula."


Fate of the Fragrance:


"Diorama," originally discontinued in 1986, experienced a revival in 2010 when it was re-orchestrated with modern ingredients and relaunched as part of Dior's prestigious collection, Les Creations de Monsieur Dior. This reimagining aimed to preserve the essence of the original while updating it for contemporary sensibilities. The fragrance was crafted to maintain its luxurious and intricate profile, appealing to both longtime admirers and new fans. 

Diorling is a leathery chypre full of spirit, just the way Christian Dior liked perfumes to be. A fragrance with British overtones, a composition with attitude, and the ideal accomplice for all-conquering femininity.

The new version's composition:
  • Top notes: Calabrian bergamot
  • Heart notes: Egyptian jasmine
  • Base notes: patchouli, leather

Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorling is available as:
  • 100ml eau de toilette

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