Diorella by Dior c1972

In 1972, when Christian Dior launched "Diorella," the world of haute couture and fashion was experiencing significant shifts. The 1970s were marked by a move away from the rigid formalism of previous decades towards more relaxed and diverse styles. Fashion was becoming more inclusive, with a greater focus on individuality and self-expression. Designers were experimenting with bold patterns, unconventional materials, and new silhouettes. This period also saw the rise of ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter) lines, making high fashion more accessible to the general public. Christian Dior, a house synonymous with elegance and sophistication, was navigating this changing landscape while maintaining its reputation for luxurious, high-quality creations. Dior's perfumes, like his clothing, were crafted to evoke a sense of timeless elegance and modernity.

"Diorella" is a name that seamlessly combines Dior's legacy with a sense of fantasy and charm. The name "Diorella" likely draws inspiration from the fairytale character Cinderella, evoking a sense of magic, transformation, and femininity. The addition of "ella" softens the name, giving it a whimsical, almost fairy-tale-like quality.

Women in the 1970s, experiencing a burgeoning sense of independence and freedom, would have found "Diorella" appealing for several reasons. First, the connection to Dior’s prestige would immediately signal quality and luxury. Women who admired Dior's fashion would be drawn to the perfume, trusting in its excellence. Second, the whimsical and modern name "Diorella" evokes a blend of classic elegance and modern vivacity, resonating with women who were navigating the balance between traditional roles and new freedoms. Lastly, much like Cinderella, "Diorella" suggests a transformation and a touch of everyday magic, implying that wearing the perfume could add a bit of enchantment to one's daily life

Christian Dior's perfumes were generally well-received and admired for their sophistication and unique compositions. Women who purchased Dior's perfumes were likely looking for a fragrance that embodied elegance, luxury, and timeless beauty. "Diorella," with its fresh and lively notes crafted by Edmond Roudnitska's collaboration with Art et Parfum, would evoke a sense of youthful exuberance and grace, aligning perfectly with the brand's image.

The name "Diorella" evokes images of a graceful, confident woman who possesses both charm and strength. It suggests a light, airy presence, yet one with depth and complexity. Emotions associated with "Diorella" might include joy, freshness, romance, and a sense of carefree elegance. Additionally, "Diorella" is a unique name, especially in the context of the early 1970s perfume market. Combining a well-known luxury brand with a playful suffix gave it a distinctive edge that set it apart from more traditionally named perfumes.

"Diorella" would likely appeal to both French and American women, though possibly for different reasons. For French women, the name would resonate with the inherent elegance and chic associated with French fashion. French women would appreciate the blend of tradition (Dior) and modernity (the whimsical "ella"). For American women, "Diorella" would represent an aspirational touch of European sophistication and glamour. The fairytale aspect would also have a broad appeal, aligning with American cultural narratives of transformation and beauty.

The advertisement featuring a vivacious woman in trousers, a slouchy sweater, and chunky heels presents an image of casual, modern elegance. This reflects the changing fashion trends of the time, where women were embracing more relaxed, yet stylish clothing. The image suggests that "Diorella" is for the modern woman who is confident, carefree, and fashion-forward. It conveys a sense of ease and sophistication, implying that the perfume is suitable for everyday wear while still being special and luxurious.

In conclusion, "Diorella" by Christian Dior was a well-conceived fragrance that aligned perfectly with the evolving fashion landscape of the 1970s. Its name and advertising campaign captured the essence of modern femininity, blending tradition with contemporary flair, making it an appealing choice for women seeking both elegance and a touch of magic in their everyday lives.

For the launch of Diorella in 1972, Christian Dior orchestrated an extravagant event that underscored the brand’s flair for elegance and drama. The occasion was set on a train journey departing from Paris to a dinner at a chateau located two hours away. This choice of venue already set the stage for a luxurious and exclusive affair, befitting the prestige of Dior’s new fragrance.

However, the event took an unexpected turn when organizers received alarming news during the journey: a bomb threat had supposedly been made against the train. This revelation immediately heightened tensions among the guests and organizers, injecting a sense of urgency and drama into the already lavish event. The threat turned out to be a hoax, but the incident itself added an unforgettable element of spectacle to the launch of Diorella.

Despite the false alarm, the event succeeded in making a lasting impression. It blended the opulence and sophistication associated with Christian Dior’s brand with a thrilling, albeit unplanned, narrative that underscored the allure and excitement surrounding the launch of Diorella. This incident not only highlighted the lengths to which Dior was willing to go to create memorable experiences for its clientele but also added an intriguing layer of intrigue and excitement to the perfume’s debut. The launch of Diorella in 1972 thus became more than just a fragrance release; it became a story of high fashion drama and luxury, further solidifying Christian Dior’s reputation as a pioneer in haute couture and perfume.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? This perfume is classified as a fresh, green floral chypre for women. It starts off with a light, cool, fresh top, followed by a radiant, cool floral heart, resting o a mossy base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, melon, green note, estragon, lavender, Sicilian lime, Sicilian citron, verbena, Italian bergamot, basil
• Middle notes: orange blossom,  lily, carnation, cyclamen, hyacinth, honeysuckle, peach, European rose, Moroccan jasmine
• Base notes: fern, sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli, musk

Perfumery: Practice and Principles, 1994:

"Many of these materials were again used in the creation of Diorella (Dior 1972), a unique and brilliantly conceived perfume, built around the accord between patchouli, Hedione, Helional, and eugenol. The top note of Diorella is again dominated by lemon, verbena, bergamot, linalool, and linalyl acetate, with lavender and estragon. Apart from a small amount of rose, the floral side of the perfume consists mainly of an intense jasmin note including Hedione (10%), cis-Jasmone (2%), hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, benzyl acetate, and indol, with aldehyde C14 providing the fruity aspect. As in Eau  Sauvage, Helional (5%) and eugenol make an accord with the Hedione, carrying the essential character into the heart of the perfume in combination with the patchouli (6%), methyl ionone, vetiver, and a colorless oakmoss.. The richness of the perfume comes from the use of jasmin absolute and trace amounts of other natural products. Petitgrain citronnier and cardamom both work well in an olfactory reconstruction of the perfume. The “watery” character of Helional which plays an important part in the character of both au Sauvage and Diorella has subsequently been used in both the creation of cool fruity notes such as Calyx, and in modern “marine” notes based on Calone, such as New West and Escape."

It was available in parfum an eau de toilette.

Soap, 1973:

"Described as a "sparkling green" fragrance, newly introduced "Diorella," Christian Dior Perfumes Corp., New York, is being made available both as perfume and eau de toilette. In either concentration, it is blended from vetiver, Sicilian bergamot, oak musk, fern, honeysuckle, jasmine, patchouli, and others. Touted as "a true modern perfume", Diorella is expected to appeal to both traditional users of concentrated scents and those desiring "the fresh clean smells of nature."

Vogue, 1973:

"A great new dazzler now is Diorella from Christian Dior, their latest fragrance that gets right to the heart of the modern woman. Breezy. Unaffected. Elegant, but relaxed about it. Deliciously feminine, but not shouting the obvious... However you take it, it's light, sparkling, dashed with the woodsiness of vetiver, fern, patchouli "

Mademoiselle, 1973:

"Scent Scene ON THE AIR: GOOD NEWS Does the idea of drifting about in cool shady forests scented with vetiver, jasmine and patchouli appeal to you? Then dip into a fresh, brand new perfume called Diorella Perfume Classic from Christian Dior."

Scent Profile:

As the sailboat glides along the Northwest Pacific coast, the scent of "Diorella" mingles with the salty breeze, enhancing the sensory journey. The perfume, a fresh, green floral chypre designed for women, unfolds like a tale of nature's beauty and elegance.

At the outset, as you embark on this leisurely voyage, "Diorella" opens with a light and cool freshness that mirrors the crispness of the sea air. Aldehydes sparkle like sunlight dancing on the water's surface, accompanied by the refreshing sweetness of melon and a green note that evokes the verdant coastline passing by. Notes of estragon and basil add an herbal twist, reminiscent of the aromatic herbs growing wild along the shore, while lavender and Sicilian lime contribute a calming citrusy essence that complements the serene atmosphere.

As the sailboat continues its journey, weaving through pockets of sunshine and shadow cast by towering cliffs, the perfume's heart emerges. A radiant bouquet of cool florals blooms aboard the vessel, filling the air with their delicate allure. Orange blossom unfolds with its intoxicating sweetness, mingling effortlessly with the powdery elegance of lily and carnation. Cyclamen and hyacinth add a watery freshness, akin to the mist that occasionally kisses your cheeks, while honeysuckle and Moroccan jasmine infuse the scene with a touch of exoticism and floral opulence.

As the day gently progresses towards evening, the perfume's base notes anchor the experience with a sense of grounded sophistication. Fern and oakmoss evoke the deep green hues of the nearby forest, their earthy aroma blending harmoniously with the salty sea breeze. Sandalwood lends a creamy smoothness that enhances the luxurious feel, while tonka bean and amber provide a warm, comforting richness reminiscent of the cozy sweater enveloping you. Vetiver and patchouli add depth and complexity, their earthy tones echoing the rugged cliffs framing the coastline. Musk adds a subtle sensuality that lingers like the memory of a shared glance across the deck.

In this sensory journey along the Northwest Pacific coast, "Diorella" becomes more than a fragrance—it becomes a companion, enhancing every moment with its fresh, floral, and mossy nuances. Just as the landscape unfolds before your eyes, each note of "Diorella" weaves a story of elegance, tranquility, and natural beauty, capturing the essence of a lazy afternoon spent in harmony with the sea and the land.

 

Bottles:

The bottle used for the extrait (parfum) was designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1972 and produced by both Pochet et du Courval and Saint Gobain Desjonqueres.

 

Happyhome, 1976:

"Diorella — the new one from Dior. Expensive smelling, lighting and very good dressing table fodder. "

To open the classic Dior crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Christian Dior themselves in 1963:

Should warm water on the bottle neck fail, tap the stopper gently with a knife handle; or try rubbing face cream or vaseline around neck of stopper.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The announcement in the Windsor Star from October 1995 brought a wave of excitement among perfume enthusiasts and loyal wearers of Diorella. After a period of absence, the beloved fragrance was making a comeback. Described as a light floral composition accented with lemon and peach notes, Diorella was reintroduced to the shelves in the form of eau de toilette sprays, offered in two sizes priced at $44 and $66 respectively. This return was welcomed warmly, evoking nostalgia and joy among those who cherished its original formulation.

However, the joy was short-lived for some. In 2009, Christian Dior made a decision that left many loyalists disheartened: Diorella was reformulated and relaunched as part of the Les Creations de Monsieur Dior collection. The new version departed from its original roots as a fresh, green floral chypre and was reinvented as a fruity floral fragrance for women. This transformation included the incorporation of modern ingredients, altering the fragrance's character significantly.

For those who had cherished the original Diorella, known for its timeless elegance and sophisticated blend of aldehydes, fresh greens, florals, and mossy undertones, the reformulation marked a departure from its classic appeal. The shift towards a fruity floral profile may have appealed to a new generation of consumers seeking different olfactory experiences, but it also represented a loss of the distinctive charm and nostalgia associated with the original scent.

Despite its evolution, the story of Diorella remains intertwined with the memories and emotions of those who remember its first incarnation fondly. Its journey—from discontinuation and eagerly awaited return to reformulation—reflects the dynamic nature of the perfume industry, where fragrances evolve to meet changing tastes and trends, sometimes at the expense of cherished traditions.

 It is still available at Dior's website (2023).

The new version's composition:

• Top notes: melon, bergamot, Sicilian lemon, basil, and green leaves
• Heart notes: orange, peach, honeysuckle, rose, cyclamen, jasmine, carnation
• Base notes: moss, patchouli, musk and Bourbon vetiver

Les Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella is available as:

• 50ml eau de toilette
• 100ml eau de toilette

In its 2009 reincarnation within the Les Creations de Monsieur Dior collection, Diorella underwent a notable transformation, reflecting a shift towards a fruity floral composition that resonated with contemporary tastes. The new formulation retained some elements reminiscent of its predecessor while introducing a fresh interpretation aimed at appealing to modern sensibilities.

Upon first application, the top notes of the revamped Diorella offer a burst of fruity freshness. Melon and Sicilian lemon blend together to create a bright and invigorating opening, evoking images of sun-kissed citrus orchards. Bergamot adds a touch of citrusy zest, complemented by the herbaceous notes of basil and the verdant aroma of green leaves, creating a vibrant and lively introduction.

As the fragrance settles into its heart, a bouquet of floral notes unfolds, adding depth and complexity to the composition. Orange and peach lend a juicy sweetness that is balanced by the delicate floralcy of honeysuckle, rose, cyclamen, jasmine, and carnation. These floral notes intertwine harmoniously, creating a lush and romantic aura that embodies the feminine spirit.

The base notes of the new Diorella provide a foundation of warmth and depth, anchoring the fragrance with a sense of sophistication. Moss and patchouli contribute earthy tones that evoke a sense of grounding, while musk adds a subtle sensuality that lingers on the skin. Bourbon vetiver enriches the base with its woody and smoky nuances, adding a touch of complexity and longevity to the overall scent experience.

Overall, the reformulated Diorella of 2009 represents a contemporary reinterpretation of the classic, blending fruity and floral elements with a subtle hint of earthiness. While it may have departed from its original green floral chypre identity, the new composition aims to capture the essence of modern femininity, appealing to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts while honoring the legacy of its iconic predecessor.